Family

Amazing how life works. Here I am on the brink of returning to my home in the States, returning to my family. And all this time without realizing or meaning to, I have been creating a family here. And now I am leaving them. The irony.

Yesterday, I had the honor of attending a family temple blessing ceremony. Putu invited me to be present as she considers me family. I consider her my Balinese sister, I am her American sister. Anyway Putu was worried that the temples wouldn't be finished before I left. She wanted me to be a part of this very spiritual and beautiful ceremony. So she has been working hard these past few weeks. And it was quite elaborate. It takes time to prepare all the offerings, decorate the temples, cook the food, build the yard up, etc. So I was very excited and a little nervous.

We were there for hours, as it is an intricate process. Finally after everyone helped prepare the temples and offerings, the village priest blessed them. Next there were a series of rituals performed and finally the family was blessed. To be a part of placing the dirt, to symbolically wash the grounds and to be blessed alongside the family (sitting in our sarongs with the eight year old guiding me as to which flower to hold above my head with each prayer) was powerful.  It made me feel so special. I was happy and sad at the same time. Happy to have created this wonderful connection and sad to be leaving so soon.

Although two years does not seem that short of a time, it really is when you realize how long you have known your family. How long does it take to create new roots deep enough you consider them to be family? We often take our own family for granted. I know this. But when you are invited into a new one, it is a reminder as to how beautiful and precious family can be: the close bond, the understanding, the support, the unconditional love. It makes me appreciate all the people in my life, family and all.

I had no idea that a little over two years ago, I would be experiencing these feelings. But I now know Bali will always be a part of my life. I will return and be present with this sweet corner of the world. What a gift.

Funny that I have created this extended family across the globe. I just was missing my Nepali bai (brother) and his family the other day, realizing now it will be at least a year before I see them again. Maybe I should be careful where I travel or choose to live next. If I make it too far away from the US-Nepal-Bali track, the plane tickets are going to add up.

Bali Reflections

Transitions are hard for me. Anyone who knows me well, has heard me say that. And now I am in transition again: Bali to the US. It is surreal to say the least, as Bali and Bend, Oregon are diabolically opposed places: dry/wet, desert/tropics, cold/hot, no traffic/asian traffic, critter free/critters everywhere, etc. Bali is so far from the US, that I am convinced a person needs the 30hour crazy airport shuffle full of strangers, endless airplane movies, little sleep, security lines, etc to make the leap possible. That 'otherness' of the airports allows you to feel the difference between the two worlds. It's like a long travel portal. Once on the other side, you can breathe in the hot, humid air or the dry crisp air, depending. But if I didn't have that long travel, I think it would mess with my head.

So as I make this transition, I still have a few weeks here in Bali for reflection.

Here is a current story:

The other day, I was given the wonderful opportunity to visit my friend Putu's family near Tabanan, about one hour north of Ubud, where I live. We got a late start that day, about 1:30pm from my house in the Penestanan rice fields. First we had to go back to Putu's house to pick up her family. They all squeezed on her motorbike (husband, nine & four year old and Putu) while I sat on mine. A family of four on one and me on the other. Very odd, but she would have it no other way. I was the guest and should have the comfortable ride. We detoured up through the north via some tourist spots: a large market, rice fields, a temple, etc. Each time Putu wanted to stop and show me, I said let's keep going to your parent's house. I didn't want to be out too much past dark, which gave us limited time on the equatorial time clock: 6am sunrise, 6pm sunset. But all was good since we were on the scenic short cut! Little did we all know that the back way road was under construction duress (maybe never get fixed) and the entire road was jutted, jagged, potholes and small boulders. No cement. It was an hour on this road. My internal organs were shaken and not stirred. We finally arrived to a another small back road in this village, two hours after we left my house. I parked and quickly checked my tire. My suspicions were right: I had a flat tire. I think the last steep uphill road, with no flat surface but scary, muddy-covered trail through rubble sealed the leaky tire to rupture. What a ride! Putu kept apologizing since she didn't know about the road conditions. But not to worry. It was an experience, right?

But we made it! The family was very excited to see me: mom, dad, sisters, nieces, nephews, brother-in-law, grandma, neighbors, etc. It was an event. We sat and made introductions and shook hands. As I have contracted a parasite recently, I wasn't feeling too well and refused more than a nibble of food. I was offered banana pancakes, rice, chicken, coffee, sweets, etc.  I never refuse meals when visiting relatives in any home. But I had too. They were sad about that. It was a short and sweet visit, although only a few relatives spoke any English, so it was me playing with the kids. As usual. They make the easiest conversation without actually saying anything: just smiles, giggles, hugs and little games. The house was small compared to many Balinese family compounds I have visited. And I was disturbed that everyone just tossed their garbage onto the ground. As I peered over the yard, down to the jungle I saw a huge pile of rubbish, lending to the smell permeating the house. That and the pigs, made for a pungent afternoon visit.

With darkness approaching, I asked about my motorbike (dad and husband went to fix as the inner tube had exploded) and all was ready to go. We decided to not return the scenic way, but head right through traffic and busy streets. Maybe one hour home? That wasn't thrilling to hear but a better alternative than the internal-organ-scrub-in-reverse way. And then it started to rain.

We headed off, with me diligently following, weaving between crazy Bali traffic in intersections that seemed immensely bigger than in a car. It was hard to keep up but I realized that if I didn't, I would be lost. I knew how to ask directions for my way home, but an hour of navigating through the capital city was daunting to say the least. And it was raining. And dark. Hard to see, slippery streets, covered in a poncho and trying to see through the droplets smashing against my helmet visor. Once I strategically pulled up to Putu at a stop light, (difficult with motorbikes squeezing into every crevice and crack in between cars and the traffic, making it bulge into all the lanes) and asked if we were close. Not even. So I pretended I was in a high speed chase and my life depended on staying close to this motorbike ahead of me: very James Bond-ish. It made it more fun. And eventually the rain slowed down and the streets became more familiar. And then we pulled over, said goodbye and I continued on to my home, another 25 minutes away but on streets that were dark, dry and quieter.

I said I would come back and visit again soon. But maybe we could leave in the morning and return before dark?

Two months in the 2nd time around!

So much has transpired since I last wrote June 15. After a wonderfully fulfilling trip home, I am two months into teaching my 2^nd year at GS. If you had asked me a year ago “why the long face?” I would not have made a joke about a horse in a bar. I would have shared my woes, listing all the myriad of reasons I was slightly on edge. I can chock it up to a few things: adjusting to life overseas as a singleton, figuring out absolutely every little thing needed about eating, sleeping, living, the climate, the bugs, the traffic stress, the workload, the challenging environment, etc.

But now, with a year of adjusting under my belt and a beautiful new classroom, I am much happier. I am glad that I am here and thankful that I stayed on. Life is good. Here are a few reasons:

I have a great community of friends. It takes a time to create a community and I really appreciate the friends that I have made. I miss the ones that have already moved on from Bali and I am thankful for the new ones that have appeared. Life is like that in the international world: people come and go. But now I‘ve even adjusted to that. And I’ve learned to cherish what I have when I have it.

I really enjoy teaching this year. All the long days, sweat (buckets of it) and hard work last year have paid off. I have a handle on what I am teaching, whom exactly I am teaching and how to teach it effectively in this school (remember no walls or windows). I brought more material with me from the States and it is a blessing to have that and what I created last year. Yeah for 2nd years!

I can laugh at the little things. For example, my kitties brought me a snake the other day (every day I pull something from their mouths) and dropped it in my living room. I walked downstairs and saw it in the dimly lit room, did a little freak-out dance and after discovering it wasn’t poisonous or very alive, I laughed. Out loud. I still kept the bowl over it until morning and then I laughed at myself again.

I love where I am living. With an affordable little house, a swimming pool, great neighbors & landlords, I feel lucky. I also have a wonderful helper (pembantu) who came every day when I was laid up for a week (tore my tendon on the bottom of my foot playing Ultimate) and cooked, cleaned, told me stories, gave me a massage, helped me learn Bahasa Indonesia and even gave me pedicure. That and my immediate community was supportive and kind bringing me boxed wine, providing company, loaning movies, giving motorbike rides, etc. And the rice fields are beautiful right now.

I finally acknowledge that exercise is the key to my stress relief. After school I go to the little gym and afterwards I am a much better and happier person.  Last year I was overwhelmed and couldn’t figure out how to exercise between the workload and commute. Now, if I decide to do laps in my little bean-shaped pool, (it takes a while) or go to the gym, I am feeling better about everything.

I have now experienced a motor-bike accident and can say I don't want another one. It was all my fault and very minor at that but it made me realize (again) to always be present while riding. I had my crutches sticking out the back from my saddle bags when I made a hasty turn. The nice Balinese couple in front of me were struck by my crutches and my poor judgement and we all slowly went down. After pulling ourselves up, and blocking traffic we settled on a price for their wounds and scratched motor bike. Awful feeling but big big lesson on my part. Slow and steady. I gave up the crutches after that too. 

I am excited about learning to surf this year. Last year it was learning to dive and experience the island and I did. Now a plan is in motion and as soon as the foot heals, I am on a board in the water. In fact, I leave tomorrow on a well-planned and organized Middle School Elective Week. My group goes to a surf camp in Java! Not great timing with a torn tendon, but we’ll see.

Pictures to follow soon.

Walking Pigs and Stroking Cocks

Yesterday was a great day of accomplishments and humor. My G8 kids finished presenting a project that they started in January. It was a “you’re about to enter HS so you should learn this stuff” kind of assignment that I adapted from another school where I used to teach. It was empowering, fist-pounding, entertaining and challenging. For them too! My GS students I am sure didn’t like parts of writing a research paper, keeping a journal or documenting project hours, but they did and did it well. So creative!  They came up with new green products to sell and creative ways to educate about endangered animals, organic gardening, pollution, plastic and more.

While we took a break for lunch during our presentations, I was wowing the kids with my 80’s music (we had a speaker system set up...dance party!) when a little black scorpion walked by. Teachable moment! As I was backing away I said, “please don’t get bitten. You might not be able to present afterwards.” But of course the G8 boys swarmed and had fun poking at it until one of the girls politely intervened and carried it away on a leaf. She’s tough.

And later, motor biking home, I couldn’t help but smile when I saw a man walking his rather large black pig down the street. Rather large being the size of a calf. I wanted to stop and take a pic, but in traffic, no way. So I just smiled to myself. Oh Bali. This isn’t a new spectacle but one you see fairly often. I think the male pigs are for breeding and get walked to the prospective sow. The handler has a little stick he keeps poking at the slow pig, which is tethered with a rope leash. All in major rush hour traffic. All humane. Until it's ceremony time requiring a swine offering. Then the squealing is heard from far away. 

So just as I am really nearing home, breathing out carefully through the ride fields slash piles and garbage burnings so as not to inhale the dense smoke, I realized it was hold your cock night. Yes, that’s true. About twice a week the men in my village (and all over Bali I am sure) sit in circles outside a family compound and hold (and stroke) their colorful cocks, proudly displaying for all to see. And the roosters are proud too. J I think they get together before the actual cockfight to entice the birds to kill each other. It just looks so odd the first few times. Then I laugh at myself, as I giggle out loud about the guys holding their cocks. It gets me every time.

And as I ride on the little cement path through the rice fields to my house, I think about how adept I have become on the motorbike. I am no longer absolutely terrified and I can weave successfully through traffic, toot my horn quickly if need be, memorize the latest pothole location, navigate around the other people on this one-size-only path and turn across oncoming traffic without a panic attack. Oh, and remember to put down the face shield before I get to a rice field area (or after 6pm) so I don’t eat and breathe little bugs. 

I finally arrive home, let the kitties out and Wayan brings me a young coconut to drink. 

Oh Bali!

Things I am used to now.

1. Waking up to the sound of a shot gun, a cattle drive or small low flying airplane. Yes, it is almost rice harvesting season and the farmers have to wake up very early (pre-dawn) and stand in their fields shooing the birds away. My neighbor on the left hits a metal board really hard with a big wooden stick (shot gun sound) and the farmer in the front field takes a large plastic flag-type devise and waves it about (small plane flying) with gusto, walking up and down the paddy! And the next field over I hear "hah," "ohh," or "hee" calls, as if there was a herd moving to pastures. And walking out to my carpool this morning I encountered yet another device. This one was the most clever I thought. The farmer had set up a series of poles around his field, all with a bunch of cans tied to the top of each pole. Then he held a string that when he pulled set all the cans shaking and clanging away. Very little effort and quite effective.

2. Driving my motorbike feels so easy now. I still have no desire to drive on the bypass or in busy gigantic intersections, but I feel more comfortable for sure. For example, I now bike all the way to my house, inspired by a little snake poking its head out of a rice paddy a few weeks ago while I was parking in the dark near my trail. Snakes are something you want to avoid here. I have been walking out to my house every day (1/4 mile) but after that night, well, I changed.  Constantly thinking that a cobra or pit viper was near, has accelerated my learning curve. Now I mostly bike out all the way on the skinny trail between rice paddy drop-offs to my house. No worries. A fatal bite or a few rattled nerves on a trail. Easy decision. Actually I love the walk, so if I have a flashlight I still try and walk. The stars are beautiful, the fire flies incredible, the frogs entertaining and it is relaxing despite the snake worry. And in the daylight I meet and say hello to all sorts of farmers, workers and tourists I see on the trail. The least favorite part on the trail is when you almost have a head-on with another biker coming around a corner or workers carrying large piles of stone on their head. Not that I have done that. Nope. Not me.

3. Not sure if I can ever get used to the heat completely, but it is better. We are now in the dry season again and without the rain clouds dousing us, the sun is brilliant and strong. It is hot. I know that to diminish my heat rash, I need stress less about work and change up the diet with less heat inducing foods (cayenne) and more chilling foods (watermelon). Bringing a Western work style into this climate is silly, as you will rarely see a Balinese working between the hottest afternoon hours. We should all be sitting under a shade tree, fanning ourselves, sipping coconuts and taking naps. But we are slogging through our jobs without AC (not green) and sweating. So I don't feel ashamed when I say how much I enjoy lying around in a hotel room with AC, while watching a mindless movie or two and writing emails. I had a few hours last weekend before we checked out on Sunday. My main choices were to go for a walk, get a massage for my birthday (thanks Teri!) or hang in the room. I chose the room since it was blazing hot out, I can get a massage anytime in Ubud and I can't zone out in AC. My heat rash completely disappears, the mold leaves my clothes and my attitude shifts to calm. I never thought I would be that person but constant humidity and heat will do strange things to you.

Side note: I kept my birthday really under the radar here. We just celebrated the biggest Earth Day event at GS and I didn't want to follow with any major planning or such to celebrate. Had a lovely weekend with a small group of folks and not one knows I turned 35! Ha!  :)

Nyepi!

I experienced my first, Nyepi or Balinese New Years, one of the most revered days of the year! It starts out with weeks of preparation from all the villages on the island. As I was going to and from school, I could watch the progress of the Ogoh Ogohs. Usually the building of these giants is left up to the young men in the Banjar (or village group). Originally they were made from paper and bamboo, and now mostly foam. They are made to capture the demon sprits on the eve of Nyepi, paraded through the village and burned as purification ritual. Again, I resort to the internet for more specific details.


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ogoh-ogo

The island the next day, from 6am to 6am, is quiet and dark. Everyone is to stay inside their homes and essentially rest, meditate and fast. Each village has patrol that keep people inside their homes. The idea being that if the island is dark and quiet, the demons will be tricked to go away. And another year starts out with a purified and demon-free island. Lovely!

Of course many tourists either leave the island or stay in hotels that offer Nyepi "black out" specials, since the idea of a quiet island is no fun for some. They put blankets and paper on the windows to black out the light, so people can still watch tv, go on the internet, have lights on, and such. I opted to stay at a friend's house and play with his family for two nights. It was great! We played games, ate by candlelight, talked, etc. Because it is a larger house then mine, we could be outside and swim during the day with little worry since the walls block out neighbors. Very buleh (tourist), but quite nice too. I had fun and am very sad to see my friends leave island and go back to the states soon. I am trying all I can to get them to stay, but of course, life moves on.

Now it is spring break and I am opting for a "staycation." I love where I live and I am excited to just be home. I am volunteering for the big Bali Spirit Festival next week. I think I get a pass to the events once I finish my shift at the information booth. Should be fun to meet new people, get my yoga on (finally!), and hear some world beats.
http://www.balispiritfestival.com/

That's all for now!

The Sky is Falling!

**Editor's Note** I wrote this a few days ago. The wind has ceased!

Okay, not really but it was so windy at school today, my classroom was falling down. I sit up on the 3rd floor of the Heart Of School (HOS), and the breezes just blow right on through my room. That and the thatched roof drops debris to the point of needing safety googles. I eventually searched out an empty classroom for my next two classes. Unreal.

The last time we experienced these types of winds, there was a cyclone off the coast of Bali that circled and wound its way towards Australia. It was incredible how windy it was. And today in school you could hear the white board crash in a nearby classroom (mine is tied to the railing), kids yelling over the din trying to be heard by their teacher (who lost all control), the occasional "whoa" from someone downstairs in the Mepantigan (our thatched auditorium), the palm trees blowing so fiercely they look like they might just topple over. You get the idea. 

I actually had a planning period this morning and couldn't write in my classroom with so much debris falling and blowing that I went downstairs to the main floor (right in the entrance area) and found a stable ceiling to sit under. But then I was wide open for every one to say, "sorry to bother you but..." I did accomplish my task but the interruptions were constant. Interesting and important as it always is catching up with your colleagues, but distracting nonetheless.

Then it was lunch. Imagine all the food in big serving dishes, with the wind knocking over everything not held down: spoons, plates, tickets, cups, food, etc.The dishes were covered by banana leaves that inevitably blew away. I patiently waited for my dish of taco fixings and went to find a decent place to eat while cowering over my plate so as not to swallow roof splinters. Forget about filling a water glass! I threw mine out immediately since more debris was inside than water. Where is my water bottle anyway? I can't believe when packing I only brought one water bottle. And I use it so much, it has to be cleaned out daily or it will smell funny. Mold, the friends that stays so close!

But I digress. 

By the end of the day, there was a huge piece of black roof plastic sliding into the classroom from the nearby roof (it is a three-roofed building), put up there to stop the leaking thatch roof into the other adjoining classroom. It looked like a giant plastic monster wanted to take over my classroom.  Good times!

Then arriving home, I found yes, the debris was everywhere, and I have windows and walls and the wind ripping through the night. My own thatched roof left a mess as a well as all the things that blew like mad in under the doors and through the open bathroom. I later found out we had a tornado warning for Bali the next day. Which wasn't any better at school. My classroom was wrecked. When I was helping a  a Grade 8 student with her homework,  the wind was whipping past us so fiercely that papers were flying, books knocking over and we were yelling so loudly it was silly. And quite comical except for the crap flying into your eyes.Then later, when I took my little sixth graders around school looking for a decent classroom to teach in, I settled on Grade 5 since they were on a field trip. But alas, coconuts were falling like mad (we were chastised for walking on the trails) and the roof had blown away.

Forget riding your motorbike with any ability or speed...the sensation of being blown over is extreme. And the reality of being blown over is scary. Thank goodness for my carpool. Which is the topic of my next blog. Stay tuned...

Lovely Sunday.

Truly a day of rest and relaxation. This morning I slept in, read my book and lounged between the early am kitty pounces. And I made the phone calls with my sister, brother, and favorite little man, Kellen. I love Sunday Skype calls. They have been too few and far between, so look out if I haven't called recently and answer if you see an "unavailable" number. Other than that, after a cup of coffee, I have the day free. I stopped going in to work a few months ago, so I have no excuse but to relax. Wayan just delivered a green coconut, which she now does every day. I am quite addicted to them. There is the option of a massage and spa, but I think I will just hang out here with the furry ones and the swimming pool right outside my bedroom doors upstairs. I haven't been home for a few weeks, so to relax here is a must.

It is slightly overcast with a touch of sun and as usual quite hot and muggy out. I bought another fan last night at the grocery store, so my downstairs has three fans that push the air around attempting to make it seem cooler. I have these beautiful large glass doors downstairs (which is my kitchen/living room) but I am not opening them too often, so not letting the kitties outside much. The little one (Ginger) is so little (3 months) and cobras, monitor lizards and the neighborhood dog still freak me out. Still traumatized from losing my last kitty. Being hyper sensitive but I guess I am allowed at this point.

In a few hours close to 3pm, I will jump on the motor bike and head to Ultimate, near the Monkey Forest. We have a Sunday game on a patchy dry field, and hopefully can play an hour or so before the neighborhood kids come out with the soccer ball. There is a Bali tournament in a few weeks, and our team has just scratched together a roster. I think I need to get in shape, seriously.
And then it is dinner with a friend of a friend that I haven't seen in years! She called and said "I am on island". Lucky me. So I chose a favorite restaurant to meet at and catch up. Decadence.

Then the week starts all over again. The weekends are so relaxing, I forget for a few days how draining the school days are. But we are almost at spring break, and I will be staying on island, saving money and volunteering at the Bali Spirit Festival. I will write more closer to the day, but Bali New Year's Day (Nyepi) falls before our break and it will be a hoot to experience. More on that later.

I wrote this next passage a few days ago, and decided to include it as part of my documenting the experience of living in the tropics.


The past two weeks of intense heat rash on various parts of my body make me think we are changing seasons again, from wet to dry. (I say this as it is pouring outside!) If you haven't had a heat rash before because you don't live in 98% humidity near the equator, let me just say, it's no fun. The constant urge to itch leads to immediate relief which then lends to extremely itchy and bleeding skin. I have learned that instant relief comes in really really scalding hot water, which you can imagine then burns the hell out of your skin. My poor neck, arms and legs have been so red and blotchy from the heat and scalding showers, that I was stopped more than once with, "are you okay?" I thought I was going crazy. Is it just in my head? Is this real? But it is real and I just dealt with it.

The hot water relief is almost orgasmic, a shuddering sense of release, no more pain, no more itch, just a wonderful tickling, scratching sensation. Lovely. Since I only have a solar shower, my hot water lasts a few minutes. There I am sticking each arm, elbow, craning neck and shins to reach the water. One night I took three showers between 8pm-3am and tried as many as 8 different ointments/powders/solutions on different body parts to see what worked best. I finally found a brilliant solution: hotel room. So last weekend a posse of us went to the beach and stayed at a beautiful hotel: pool, beach front, pool bar, spa, etc.  But for me the beauty was the hot bathtub (imagine the sensation there!) and cold air conditioning while languishing on a bed watching HBO. I have no bathtub, AirCon or TV, so I was on vacation! I only went outside to the pool at 1pm because the hotel called and said, "it's time to check out." Then I ordered a dry cocktail and stayed in the pool.

Cheers.

Two Month Highlights?

If I were to describe all the moments of the past two months since my last blog, it would take too long. So I will highlight them here, briefly. First of all, I was so lucky to have visitors for almost a month from December 13 to January 7th. First my sister Thea came! I was so happy and excited that we would spend another Christmas together. Lucky me. We traveled around the island, diving, lying in the sun, relaxing, eating great Christmas dinners, walked around Ubud in the rain, playing a few games of chess. It was wonderful! Then Kriss and Mark came, all of the visitors together at the same time. We had one weekend all together down south at a little beach. We ate, walked on the beach, toured Ulu Watu Temple and took pics of the over-sized monkeys, whilst watching a Kecat dance of Rama and Sita. Lovely. Than after Mark's quick visit and a tour of the GS school , Kriss and I had New Year's (yeah dancing!) and the week after to explore and hang out. Good times to day the least. Weird feeling to wake up one day and its just me, the snoozing kitties on my face and the pouring rain outside.

Then it was back to school and the mad rush of not having much free time: planning, organizing, grading, meeting. But the bonus was my Christmas packages arrived! That and the gifts that Thea and Kriss brought. Oh, my coworkers were jealous. :) Thank you everyone: Thea, Kriss, Peter, Lenore, Aunt Pat & Uncle Macy. Liz, sadly the calendar has not arrived yet. But I am still looking. I can't express how wonderful it was and how I miss everyone. So all in all it was good to be back at school but things got hectic quickly.

I think the loss of my cousin was the hardest thing to experience so far from home. I couldn't be in Portland, close to grieve with everyone and yet I felt the intense loss. My sweet cousin Caroline, who I think about every day, I am hoping and praying has found herself in a better place. Can't go too much farther on that one in a blog. But the loss was compounded in a way with the loss of one of my kitties, Penny.

The immediate death here in my house for me to deal with alone, was horrible, but in a strange way allowed me to grieve for my cousin too. Since I raised the little fur balls from two weeks old, I can't express how sad and responsible I felt for Penelope's loss. I didn't know how sick she was and the guilt is sometimes over powering. When I left for school last Wednesday, she was still sick from the night before (I thought food poisoning). I had just had them both fixed a few days before. I came home from work that evening and I couldn't find her and called and called. I knew something was wrong. She had curled up in my closet and died. Ugh. Awful. I went out to Wayan and her husband Neoman, a blubbering mess carrying her little body. They did a quick ceremony and burial in the dark. I then whisked the other one off down the rice paddies, to a taxi and the 24hr kitty vet that I didn't know existed previously. The vet said their immune systems were compromised from the surgery and since not vaccinated, succumbed to a virus. Javier, then spent a week on an IV and in kitty ICU, trying to recover from that deadly virus. He did. And I brought him home a few days ago, after spending every afternoon, motorbiking over and holding him in my lap for an hour.

Of course, I couldn't bring him home alone, since Penny and Wayan's kitty had died too. So I brought another rescue kitty home, and he is a miniature of Javier, named Ginger. Pretty cute and very sweet. Javier came home looking all over for Penny. Sad. But he is better. Ginger is three months old and a precocious lover.  Both have to go back and get more vaccine's and check ups, but all is good in Bali kitty world. I can't explain how compounded everything is here. But to open my world to an animal, is hard knowing what a harsh environment this is for animals. Most people don't do it. But I am a sucker and can't help not having animals around me.

Now, it's Sunday after a long weekend of the Galugan holiday of staying home and reading, relaxing and sleeping. Galungan is a time, every six months, where the Balinese make these beautiful decorated poles outside of every house, and spent the next 11 days giving thanks to the ancestors, the families and the Gods. It is extremely spiritual and happens every 210 days, or the rice cycle. I hope to go to the Temple next weekend with Ani, my housecleaner or Pembantu, and experience one of the ceremonies and blessings. I didn't go on a trip with the 200 GS families to the Gili Islands since I found out my kitty could come home. I know I missed another good time, but I was allowed some solo time to grieve, think and deal. Sometimes that is what is important.

Today no rain. I decided I need make more Skye calls, write shorter, more up to date blogs and take advantage of this healing place I live in: get more massages, drink more juices and start really exercising again. Ha! Stay tuned.

Too much Sun?

I really should be writing my grade reports right now but the teaching day just ended and I am fried. So what to do? I still have another 1/2 hour before my carpool heads home, leaving just enough time to walk downstairs to the warung (our little outdoor snack shack) and order a coconut. It is like a student store but run by Balinese staff and a few students help out here and there. After school it is a mayhem of course being near the entrance to school: parents, kids, teachers, visitors, drivers, staff and such. The marimba band is practicing, floating their beautiful sounds through the campus and there is a buzz of kids playing soccer on the field. I know there is no quick trip at 3:30pm to the warung but I really want a green coconut. I go. I run into a few parents, who inevitably want to chat about their child but I try to look like I need to go somewhere really important, while holding my big green coconut, smiling and sipping through the lemongrass straw. All very green.

 I really can't explain how good a coconut makes you feel in this climate. After sweating all day and drinking a few coffees, no matter how much water I drink, I am always dehydrated it seems. And as most teachers know, leaving the classroom to fill up your water bottle let alone go to the bathroom never really happens. Drinking coconut I sense a strange elixir of energy liquid coursing through my veins. And with my nagging cough and depleted energy from teaching middle school students all day in an open air classroom, it is magic. I need it. And today caught me completely by surprise at one point.

I was nearly finished eating our Indonesian lunch of rice, tofu/tempe, vegetables and salad when I realized I couldn't go back up to my classroom. I had had enough sunlight. Period. I feel really hypocritical writing this since most of North America above the 45th parallel is in darkness but it's true. And I apologize because I know very well the sense of despair when you leave your house in the dark and return in the dark. Dark and cold. But truly I am in the exact opposite situation. I leave with a walk through the rice fields, sunlight in my eyes and teach all day in bright sunlight (unless thunder clouds rollin) and leave to a walk home in the light. My classroom has a skylight that almost looks plastic but I am sure it's some recycled or renewable product. But with that directly above me and no walls, I think I am experiencing sensory light overload. Which all this seems odd since it is the rainy season.

So while composting my banana leaf plate, I looked around and knew I needed a dark place, immediately. I sat under a nearby bamboo stairwell, eating the mango sweet rice dessert when my co-worker's Indonesian daughter, Veronica, came up to me to say hi. We carpool together and play on the weekends too. She is a sweetie in Grade 2. She said, "what are you doing Ibu Mary?" I said I need to sit in a dark place. (Irony there). And she said, "oh we played hide and seek yesterday. I can show you a place." She took me to the other bamboo stairwell (there are three here). Very cute. Now mind you, this is the bottom floor of the Heart of School and everyone is eating lunch at the same time, all around us. Very dynamic environment to hide in.

Alas there was a teacher working there at a nearby desk so I looked around and found another place that was a little dark: a building next door with a metal roof from old containers, that has been thatched over. It houses some administration folks. I walked in, again there are people everywhere and sat down right near the opening at a table. Said my "hellos" and right next to me was a guitar, missing a string. I tuned it, started playing and immediately found myself instantly relaxed. Ahhhh, no sunlight, calming music and relative peace. The other Grade 2 girls came over as well as people stopping by to say,"oh I didn't know you played" but for the most part I had about 10 minutes of dimly lit relaxation. As the gong chimed (no bells here) I watched the last of the Grade 6 kids peel themselves off the playground and head up towards my room. One stopped and said, "don't we have English Ibu Mary?" I had to go. But for a moment, I had relaxation here.

My carpool is almost ready to drive home, so I must go. But I did run just into my Pembantu, Ani, at the warung and she is going to take me to her temple this Saturday for a blessing. I was told to get blessed last week from a local priest for security and health. Many spirits on Bali. It is a full moon so an auspicious time. I just need to wear the traditional sarong, cloth belt and long-sleeved lace shirt. More on that later but I think I can try the holy water and get some medicine. Who knew? When I think a year ago that I had absolutely no idea I'd be here, living in Bali. Wild!

Yoda & The Dude by Candlelight

Power Outage: Last night after a quick swim in our now full swimming pool (yeah!) after a really looonnnnggg day at work, my landlord Denny came by and said the electrical power could be out for some time. No big deal, I thought. It was just getting dark, which happens very quickly around 6:30pm. I love the consistency of the daylight and temperature here on the equator. Not much change in sunset/sunrise, no daylight savings time, no drastic shifts in temperature.

I quickly assessed the scene: shower soon, check on candles and flashlights, get kitties inside to avoid scary prowling snakes, etc. After my shower in the dusk, I was making an icy coffee drink, which led me to realize how quickly the fridge and freezer will lose their temperature if I keep opening them up.  Silly me. I then opted to skip making dinner, throw the real perishables in the freezer and a tray of ice in the fridge and watch a movie instead under the lovely protection of my new mosquito net. I feel like a princess under my new net. The geckos can't poop on my head, little midnight biters can't get me and the caterpillars can't easily fall on my pillow. I can sleep. Of course I discovered very quickly that the kitties love their new toy: they pounce up and down on the net, which I tie each corner in a knot in the morning to expose the bed to air flow. Air flow=less mold on pillows/sheets.

After I lit various candles, I nestled under the net, (was thankful I had powered up my computer at school) and saw all the perforated scratch marks from those incessant claws! I won't tell my landlords about this too soon. It took a month to have it installed! But the ever-present squirt bottle helps remind the fur balls what they can and can't play with. Like that will help. 

I still have a couple movies downloaded from a co-worker and happily finished Return of the Jedi and started The Big Lebowski. Bliss. I didn't care how long the power was out. I clearly couldn't do the grade reports (all 70 are due by Monday) or edit the papers I brought home, or even check email. It was just me and Yoda, Luke and The Dude. Loved it. 

Kitty Tales: Before all went completely dark (I only have a few candles) I made sure my tall plastic mug was nearby too. I keep it handy now even though my wonderful Pembantu, Ani, keeps putting it away when she cleans. The reason for the plastic mug is because you never know what the cat will drag in, literally. Or what will hop, crawl, skitter, slither, or scamper in. The other night I saw my orange kitty, Felix, playing with something but jumping away each time he got close. My sensors went up immediately since he normally doesn't jump so high after poking some critter. I got the cup, grabbed a flashlight and pulled him out from under the chair. I covered the whatever and slid a card underneath and pulled it out to look. I shined my flashlight on a little brown scorpion, tale flexed in ready position. Great. For a moment the thoughts that swirled in my head were worrisome: did Felix get stung? is it a deadly scorpion? are there more? will I be able to sleep? is the kitty still breathing? And the answers I could gather were: Felix is fine, I have no idea if there are more (yes is my guess) or if they are deadly. I am sure I will sleep but damn. Now I have to really be aware where I step.

And this morning I quietly tiptoed off to the bathroom early, trying not to disturb the kitties that were soundly sleeping in my arm pit. But they woke up and followed me into the bathroom, which I keep shut at night since it is open air. I taught them other day how to jump up to the sill and then jump down outside where I placed a chair for easy access. (I am trying to encourage them to go potty outside but they refuse. I then take the litter box garbage by hand down the rice field path and motorbike to the local dumpster about 10 minutes away. Good times).

Anyway, I know they wanted to jump out this morning since they started to ramp it up and run around. It was still dark so I quickly shut the door and kept them inside since I am still unsure about cobras and vipers outside in the dark. But the kitties decided to do cartwheels and run chase races all over my little upstairs, bed and head. The mosquito net was getting a few new scratches as well. After more squirts with the water bottle and tosses off the bed, I was wide a awake and pissed. It was only 4:30am. But then I heard it. A huge "thwump".

My little tabby girl had done it again and I freaked out. She fell downstairs onto the tile floor, about 15-20 feet below. I raced down the steps and she was in shock. I know there is no quick trip to the vet, so I just held her and slowly checked for broken bones, labored breathing, etc. She didn't move. Then I smelled it. Upon impact she had pooped herself. Cats don't do this so I knew something was bad. But after a quick wash, another 1/2 hour of holding and petting, she began to get antsy and want to play with her brother. I left for work a few hours later at 7am and she was already outside, climbing the banana tree.  One can only hope she is okay.

This happened one night a few weeks ago leaping off the railing towards the ceiling after a gecko, but she landed on the stairs, not so far down. And there was no poop involved. I figured she has used up two lives? And I really hope she is okay when I get home today. I am totally attached to those two crazy, mosquito net-loving, spastic, purring fur balls.

More pictures as soon. 

Bat in the classroom

The other day, I had the ultimate teachable moment: a little fruit bat hanging in the thatched ceiling (all open air classroom and very outside). The kids noticed her in the morning and she stayed all day. It was quite beautiful. I could guess it was a fruit bat based on the shape, size, coloring and epithets. Once long ago, I did get really into educating about bats a while back (while caving and working for OMSI) and it made my day. All the classes came in and said, "look at that!" It was really fun, except the part of trying to calm them down and refocus towards the lesson on hand. But here we are at the Green School and these are the moments that count.

A few other noteworthy moments in other people's lives here involve a cobra eating a rat in a backyard, a baby monitor lizard attacking a rat appearing in a kitchen before breakfast, a unidentifiable snake slithering in a classroom, (unidentifiable since the facilities guy was smashing it before the kids could really see it), and a rather large spider and large bee having a dual near a whiteboard while a youngster is getting his lesson one on one. The bee apparently wanted to sting the spider and then lay its eggs in the spider for safe keeping.

But all is well. I have taken the weird caterpillars thingys that constantly drop, along with gecko poops on my bed and head, as just part of having a natural, thatched roof. Annoying but they only bite when caught up in your clothes. I discovered this the other morning when I jumped on my scooter ready for work, with my helmet, computer, bike bag full of essentials (bug spray, money, phone, throat lozenges, headlamp, first aid kit, slicker, umbrella, lip balm, license, sunscreen, etc.) and my garbage. I rode to the dumpster and as I was tossing it in, something was really biting my neck. I tried to ignore it whilst I was maneuvering my bags and garbage in front of the rubbish collectors and I finally threw it all down, flung off my slicker (it was raining) and found a stinking caterpillar thingy from my house biting my neck. Arghhhh! The rubbish collectors and the old men who sit in the bale (open air, raised, covered platform) on this street corner, just watched me. "Silly Buleh" (white person), is I am sure what they were thinking.  Well, I have learned you just smile and laugh at as much a possible. And try not to slide out on the motorbike while making a hasty exit.

I did go see a cranial-secral healer the yesterday after work. A fellow teacher went to see him and I thought why not? after getting this deep cough that settled in just two days. I decided to jump on the healing wagon. Apparently Ubud is historically a place of healers, from ancient times to today. So I heard about him and thought maybe he can relieve this stuck energy and give me some wisdom on how to deal in the tropics. So after work I scooted my way across town, through crazy Friday afternoon traffic to find his office, at the infamous Yoga Barn. And with absolutely no expectations other than wanting to relieve myself of this awful cough, I walked into his little open air, thatched roofed office.

After an initial consultation, and kinesthetic work finding my organs and systems all healthy, he worked on my cranial-sacrum connection. I was a little out of alignment. And it was wild. I closed my eyes and at one point felt like I was floating and doing somersaults. It could have been because finally I was lying down after a super long week of intense heat, being sick and being really excited about the weekend but you never know. Afterwards he suggested that I start taking Colloidal Silver, swim to counter the heat in my body, take a special mushroom concoction and find a local priest to connect with. He said I am going through a spiritual awakening and need to align myself with the good spirits on the island. I know this but it was good to hear too. Bali is so full of spiritual energy, being the island of the Gods and generations of priests and healers. And with all the ceremonies, I would like to be connected to a local temple. I need to connect with a local priest and get blessed, he suggested. I am working on that now. I got my feelers out there. And since Bali is a petri dish of bacteria, it is good to be healthy physically, spiritually and mentally. Since we are so close to the equator, things never go dormant and settle. There is always bacteria waiting to move in...so my healing appointment was worth it.


I bought a big bottle of Colloidal Silver at a health food store today while out on the Saturday errands which after a few Skype calls, included: cleaning my house, figuring out internet connection here, motorbiking to the bank across town, buying a mosquito coil box (kitty proof), dodging the heat by drinking fresh juice twice, shopping at the grocery store, eating a lovely healthy meal out, finding an air-con machine in a random store and standing in front of it until it was obvious I wasn't buying anything, paying the bill for the appointment yesterday, etc.  I showed up at the appointment and said I couldn't make it to the bank in time, and had no cash. He said, no worries. Pay tomorrow.  Despite the big tour buses, crowded streets and thousands of people, Bali still feels like a little town. Or at least Ubud. I ran into so many people out and about today as I scooted around doing my errands. A good Saturday to say the least.

But did the Ducks win??

Damn, it's hot!

Damn, is true. It is sweltering here at about 31*C, but really feels like 39*C. In other terms, it is 88*F, but feels like 102*F, and if you add in the humidity of about 85%, well, everyone is glowing. Yes, it is hot, sticky and I find myself moving towards any breeze that comes my way like a dog leaning towards the wind, while hanging out the car window. I have been sweating all day and felt really warm, as if I had a fever. A sore throat cold settled in the other day, with a lovely deep cough, which would make sense of a ever coming too. But alas, no fever, I think it is just the heat. I have never really spent continuous time in a hot tropical climate where the heat doesn't really let up, ever. So how does one react? Well, I find myself slightly irritable. And as a teacher of middle school kids, if you lose your sense of humor and lightness, things get ugly. So I am trying to be on my best behavior as it goes. 

Overall, I would say that in the heat you:

 1. eat less

2. drink more water and green coconuts

3. feel sticky all the time which makes bug bites insanely itchy

 4. invite yourself to as many homes with pools as often as possible

 5. shower at least twice a day (and my water was out the past two days. ugh!)

6. laugh less and complain more

7. be less motivated to do anything worth any physical effort

8. lock the kitties out of your house when they pounce on your head at 4:30am (regardless of snakes)

9. drink more (not water)

10. cook less and thank god I live near restaurants now

In all this complaining which I hate to do, I moved into my new place about a month ago and the pool is done. That doesn't mean it is completely full but swimmable at least. There is much to do around the perimeter and get the pump working, etc. but at least I can jump in and cool off. Lovely! My door opens right to the pool and company will always be there. I give up privacy for coolness. I don't care either. I am attaching a few pictures that I took the other morning. I will add a few better ones soon. 

I still don't have reliable internet at home, so when I get home on the weekdays, after a 25 minute sometimes harrowing motorbike ride or a 30 minute carpool and walk out to the rice fields, I tend to stay there. And on the weekends I walk to a place with internet but not always early enough to get all the calls in. I hope this will change soon. I either have to buy a stick that provides internet and pay a monthly fee or wait for my landlord to fix the situation. 

So I want to make some more phone calls but the timing is a bit off. I want to hear about the Jingle Bell run in Bend, the rain in Portland, the snow on Mt. Hood and everything in between.

Miss everyone!

Pic 1=My little round house, looking from pool.

Camping, Eating and Sweating

Time has been flying the past few weeks! I just spent the past week camping with my Grade 8 students in West Bali National Park on a remote island, for a coral reef survey. The Green Studies theme for this group is conservation, so we worked with an organization, the Odyssey Institute, and spent the days learning how to do a scientific study looking at reef indicator species: fish, echinoderms and the substrate. Our classroom was in the ocean: snorkeling and counting species. The kids did great although just imagine camping with 14 mostly immature boys where hormones and bathroom humor go a long long way. Needless to say I loved it all: the group of adults was refreshing, the kids were entertaining and the water was bathtub warm and beautiful. The weather was a mixed bag of extreme heat, and rain sprinkled with lightening and wind. But to sit around a camp fire and watch the stars and embers was something I didn't realize I missed so much. (Pictures coming soon) And to be able to swim in the water every day was so lovely. I brought a frisbee and the kids really took to playing 500 in the shallow water to cool down. That, charades and a cribbage board completed the entertainment factor. Oh and the fruit bats that flew overhead at night were the biggest I have seen so far. Outrageous!


A few hours after we got back form camping, it was time for Thanksgiving dinner. I was graciously invited to a student's house, his parents hosting a sit down meal of 70 people or so. I had no expectations other than I heard the food would be excellent. I went with my co-workers, catching a ride on a motor bike, as it was in the neighborhood. The house was Bali divine and absolutely spectacular, with a view that was surreal. The company was great, food absolutely wonderful (full turkey dinner with pumpkin pie) and the house...well just check it out:

http://enzodalverme.photoshelter.com/gallery/G0000t9Wz6FClepQ

We just stayed up on the main floor, as all the rooms and private quarters were off limits. But you get the idea. I just walked around sipping these fabulous icy grapefruit cocktails the host kept feeding his guests, with my mouth gaping open and telling everyone that I really could live here. But in reality, it is a little big for my taste. :)

I did make a few calls home at school yesterday in this tiny window I had between teaching. It was so great to talk. I realize that I need to call home more often. It is just such a weird feeling. It makes me excited but homesick at the same time. I am happy in the moment then a bit sad afterwards. But then I look around, take a deep breath, drink in the humidity, find someone to play with and all is better.

The weather really is hot now. I had no idea what this could feel like. Like the cold-sideways Portland rain, the humidity and warmth just slowly sneaks under your skin and settles. Of course unlike P-town weather, this heat appears in the form of heat rashes, flushed skin and a permanent facial shine. A teacher yesterday said, "I feel like I am the only one who sweats this much." We all laughed at her silliness. Everyone has a glow. And if you walk anywhere, which all of us do all the time, you are just hot. There is no humility in the sweat that pours through your clothing. I spent most of the day yesterday with our middle school kids and visiting Indonesian middle school kids playing field games. It was so hot, with the sun just beating down, I had to pull them off the field every 10 minutes or so and make them drink water. One student was so hot even after drinking a bottle of water and sitting in the shade for 20 minutes, I bought him a green coconut from our little Warung (outdoor cafe) on campus to drink and he was better in a few minutes. The green coconuts replace electrolytes like nothing else. I try to drink one a day at school. But I need to figure out how to open them on my own and buy them near my house and store them in the fridge.

So now post T-Day, I am just gearing up for the next few weeks of school. My new landlord says I work too hard as he watching me return late every day. And since I leave before most are up and return almost at dark, it is true. But then again, I am the only one in my little complex that has a day job. And as most teachers know, the work begins after the kids leave the classroom. Which usually happens before school, after school, at lunch, on the weekends or during any possible break. Although my new motto is to not go in on the weekends now. Bali or not, teaching is time consuming. So until I switch careers, I am in the mix of working hard.

I have decided that I need a mosquito net in my new house. Screens or not, those little buggers find their way in and I have new bites in random places that the sheets can't hide. A friend had some camphor clear lotion the other day that takes the itch out of the bites and I just bathed in it. She ended up giving it to me. With the heat rashes and bites, it can be a mix of itching and squirming throughout the day. But it's really not that bad. A seriously hot shower (sounds counterintuitive but it works) will take the itch out of any rash or bite. And our little pool is almost finished where I live and that will be great! A day or two away...can't wait!

Off to do some errands now on this sunny Saturday: find a dry bag for my computer, buy a  mosquito coil metal tin, exercise and swim in someone's pool. Ahhhh, the weekends are nice.  More later!

"America is for wimps"

That is what a fellow GS comrade texted to me once I made it home in the twilight and pouring rain, dodging lightening over my head as I scurried along the rice field pathway, after motorbiking from school in the biggest downpour I have ever experienced. The roads were so flooded and the rain came down so hard, I couldn't see a thing let alone break, since the flooded streets knocked my break power out. Good to know at the top of a hill. I knew leaving school that day, looking out at the darkening sky and sheets of rain that I had to toughen up and just do it. I had yet to ride in the rain.

Now I have seen plenty of little motorbike accidents and heard of many more, involving slick streets, miscued swerves, etc. So I made it to my motorbike after trudging across the river, up the trail to where I parked it with an umbrella in one hand and with my computer tucked in a plastic bag in the other. I donned my one-sized-fits-all poncho and helmet, stuffed everything in my new saddle bags and heading into the rush hour traffic. I drove like a granny on Valium and was passed by a million people, managing to make the cross-traffic turns and splashed my way through the giant puddles. Good times. I parked (still can't ride the skinny rice paddy trail to my house on motorbike yet) limped up the path and stopped at my friends, Teri & Steve's house, on the way to mine. They filmed my entrance, like a wet mop, laughing as I dripped into their house. I attempted to wait out the rest of the rain but the storm only got worse with darkness, thunder and lightening. So after arriving home and texting back that I wasn't struck by lightening and there were no termites flying in my kitchen, I was good. Hence the "America" text back.

Yes, the other night I discovered that near Nov 1, the termites come after the rains and swarm any lights. So the other night when I looked down at my kitchen floor after just walking in, I saw it moving. I thought, what the hell? What now? (It's always something here). And I saw millions of wings and writhing wormy bodies on the white tile floor of my new house (update on that below). The kitties were having a blast eating them up but I managed to sweep them mostly outside and off the counters. Then the next night I came home, showered and went downstairs to discover they were now in my kitchen, thousands swarming while I had showered. I couldn't take it. I had stepped into a National Geographic episode of what happens in Nov after the rains come...the flying ants. I grabbed a beer and headed outside, unable to turn the lights out let alone breathe, so I just gave up until they dropped their wings, about 1/2 hour later. I cleaned up that mess. Then I figured it out: turn on the outside lights, leave the inside ones off and wait until they pass by. Oh, and I saran-wrapped the last unscreened window with duck tape. (that will be fixed soon). But of course, I did this the other night and watched them all swarm outside my giant glass doors and eventually slide in underneath. They swarmed inside again. I gave up and after trying to stuff the bottom of the doors much to the chagrin of the kitties. I turned out all the lights around the house and sat outside again, drinking another cold beer. (Yes my drinking has increased here. But don't worry. I know my gene pool).  I watched the termites fly to my neighbor's light and swarm. Good.

So much has happened since I wrote last, I think I have to very short updates:

1. I moved to the rice fields, near Ubud. I joined our GS teacher carpool of a great and lively group. I motorbike, carpool or sometimes ride my bike in to work. But since the rains have come, I try to carpool the 4 days we do. One day we all ride in on motorbikes.

2. My house is a little, two-story, round, multi-windowed, thatched roof, newly built house that over looks the rice and an almost finished swimming pool. I am excited. There are 6 houses here, and my landlord is great. I feel lucky to have found it. I loved the Bamboo Village but I wanted windows, doors, screens, tile, more community and a pool. Oh and to be able to walk to a coffee shop, which is where I am right now. :)

3. I have been working a lot but came to a realization the other day that I should temper that. I am here to experience Bali and not just GS. This came to me after a lengthy carpool discussion about work, and then I arrived to find my classroom had been completely swamped/rained on after that big storm I described. New leaks had surfaced (I am on the top floor)  and all this student work was destroyed on my desk. I couldn't control it and although I was frustrated (again) I let it go and so went my need to work as much as I have been. I will try to not go in on weekends any more but I will do my best and call it a decent effort.

4. Ultimate Frisbee is alive and fun at GS once a week. We have had about 20 people show up, including students and us older players. I love it even though the field is short and the humidity is 85%, with an average temp of 85%. Sweating is just part of the game. Water isn't enough afterwards. Coconut really replaces the electrolytes. We play in tennis shoes or barefoot, although I prefer shoes since sweaty feet get you nowhere. There are a few really solid players that are fun to have out there. I am going to try to go to a few Asian tournaments after Christmas break.

5. With the change of seasons officially upon us, bodies adjust accordingly, or so we hope. I found that the intense moisture and heat brought a body rash that was excruciatingly annoying. After two days, I found the wife of a co-worker who is a healer and she gave me some advice. Oh, thank god. It cleared and all is well. But after being covered here and there with various bites from who knows what, I didn't need a heat rash. Jeez. I had been bit by the smallest insect that somehow got me in bed. I looked to see this painful bite and it was so small it looked like a pin prick. But it hurt so badly I couldn't bend over for a day. So now when I see the giant spider scurry in my bathroom, or the small biting flies nesting near the whiteboard, or the multi-colored millipede-thingy in my bed, or round hopping bugs on the stairs, or giant black bees near my desk at school, I don't flinch as much. I just swish it gently away. Then I shiver with, "what was that?" It's all good.

6. Love sitting outside at night and watching the fireflies dance through the ride fields. That and the raucous thunder and ligthening that woke me up the other night, shaking the bed, blinding the house and freaking out the kitties who huddled in the crook of my arm. I tried to count "1 one thousand, 2 one thousand" to see how far it was away. I didn't make it to "1." It was right over head. I have never experienced that intensity before, ever.

7. Attempted a night out with GS folks to hear Jason Mzak play. By the time we made it to the south of the island, and into the gigantic concert venue (near the beach), we caught the last song and two encores. It was a long night in the car after an already two hours in a sticky, rusted little bus, to&from a VB game that I co-coach. The kids play for about 20 minutes but there and back to GS takes two hours in traffic. So after getting back to GS at 5pm and heading straight to a concert (via picking up people at various places not along the way, dinner and outrageous traffic) it was another five hours in the car. I got home at 2:30am. Next time after working a 10 hour day, I think an additional five hours in the car isn't worth it. Call me crazy.

Well. That's the latest for now. Pictures soon.

Sleeping Sharks

I have to laugh right now because of my current situation. I just called Uncle Mike from The Quick & Easy Boys at 2:00am Oregon time (they just finished a gig in Bend), while I am cooking rice and lentils, as my neighbor is playing the Star Wars title song on his trumpet blaring into my house and my kitties are falling asleep like little drugged aliens after they ate their dinner, while I was squirting a stray cat from coming inside. My front door is open and it is just starting to get dark outside which means the local temple recording will soon sound at the 5:45pm call to Hindu prayer. I had to light incense since there was a cremation next door with my ceiling fan spinning constantly above. It has been a very hot day that I spent mostly at school prepping for classes while reminiscing on my last week diving in the Komodo Islands. There you go. Life in Bali. Nothing short of entertaining.

I did indeed see sleeping sharks, swimming sharks and many other amazing creatures under the deep blue sea. Before this trip, I had about 4-5 dives to my name (I can't exactly remember since I left all my PADI paperwork in storage and it was 20 years ago). This was a trip where I should have had at least 20 open water dives to be aboard. But I was allowed to dive. Barely.

The always entertaining and hilarious German dive master and boat owner, Vovo, was creative and I survived. He reminded me and guided me but was clearly used to pro divers. I was with my co-worker Teri and her husband Steve, who invited me along and worked out all the details.

Vovo's beautiful and sweet Indonesian wife, Yani, cooked us the best food I have ever had and three crew supported the trip. The boat was home away from and the weather perfect.

We shared the boat with a lovely Swiss father and daughter, who were 80 dives more experienced then me but very patient and kind.

Needless to say I learned an incredible amount and am in love with diving. I was especially nervous and scared with everything the first few dives. I had trouble clearing my ears, finding the right mask and breathing slowly, but it was all worth it. We dove in protected bays as well as open currents and saw sharks, turtles, scorpionfish, trigger fish, sea stars, sea slugs, sea worms, clown fish, manta rays, angel fish, grouper, and so many other kinds it was overwhelming. The coral was stunning and the fish came in every color possible. It was sensory overload for the eyes. And incredible will-power to not freak out in the mind. We are not meant to be 90 ft under water, and once I learned to trust myself and my equipment, I was much more relaxed.

Komodo diving can be quite dangerous with the currents and is considered a place for professionals. There were a few times that I had my hand held through the currents (thank god!) so I wouldn't panic or get swept away. We heard the stories that indeed happened with folks last year that were swept away and not picked up or found for days. No fooling. But we had Vovo and they did not. We also had his trusted crewman, Merajap, who was always in the speed boat waiting after each dive, battling the currents and looking for our bubbles. 

Vovo would brief us on each dive, what currents to expect, where to go, what depth we would be at, etc. One particular dive, Castle Rock, we dove about 90 ft into this bowl and there were so many fish all around, above and below that with the sun glimmering down, it was surreal. I wrote a poem.

"Castle Rock"


Descending down into the depths
Farther down than my ears wanted to go,
Farther than my eyes could comprehend, 
the world opened before me.


Shimmers, glints, shadows, 
Sunlight streaming down.
Losing sight of the surface,
Schools of fish living in beauty.


Here in this place we are guests.
With the coral cascading down
into the sandy bottom,
Where the sharks sleep.


Life continues in movement,
eating, attacking, breathing, dancing.
waters we pack heavy 
To be, in this light.


And stare in awe 
with mouths full of air,
with life all around
a constant flow moving before us.


Turning, staring, pointing, smiling,
we can't get enough of this place.
We don't want to leave, 
to believe it isn't our home.


Today here, tomorrow eager to return.
Breathe deep, breathe slowly
and again I will see the light
below.


Beyond the diving we did take the speed boat to Rinca Island to see the Komodo Dragons.

and spent a sunset watching thousands of flying foxes leave their roost in hunt of food.

Dolphins jumped and local fisherman fished.

The sunsets were mind-bending and the sunrises were beyond picturesque.

After our journey on the boat we went back to Flores Island (where we flew in from Bali) and spent a few days exploring, and getting our feet back on the ground. We went for a rainy hike in the rainforest, saw more rice fields, 

went to the market, meet some locals and then came home. 

Now I feel like I am in Indonesia.